The Silver Dream Machine performs at East Beach Studios, Beach Parade, Worthing on Saturday 12th December at 1pm.
The Silver Dream Machine performs at East Beach Studios, Beach Parade, Worthing on Saturday 12th December at 1pm.
↧
Introducing The Silver Dream Machine
The Silver Dream Machine performs at East Beach Studios, Beach Parade, Worthing on Saturday 12th December at 1pm.
↧
A Dress for Midwinter
Inspired by Gudrun Sjödén's beautiful Midvinter collection, I decided to sew a heavily brocaded panel on the bodice using different braids and embroidered ribbon collected over the years. It took some time to get the placement right!
The finished frock has a festive folksy feel and will see me through this season's celebrations.
↧
↧
Esme Dress: Lotta Jansdotter Everyday Style
Lotta Jansdotter's Everyday Style is a perfect place to start a new sewing year. It's packed with inspiration and includes five easy sewing patterns that can be adapted to make wearable every day garments. Jansdotter's designs in this book have been beautifully drafted into sewing patterns with the help of Alexia Abegg of Green Bee Design & Patterns (a new name to me).
I bought the book at a local bookshop and traced out the Esme Dress the same evening. I decided to use a red floral fabric (which days before had been the Christmas tablecloth) to make a trial version of the dress.
Sewing instructions in the book are simple and easy to follow and this was a super-quick dress to make. The enclosed patterns come in 5 sizes from XS to XL printed on traceable pattern sheets, just like the Japanese Sewing Books except here seam allowances are included. I drafted the Esme using S for the shoulders and bust, M at the waist, grading out to L at the hips. I also added 10 cms to the hem to make this a dress, rather than a tunic.
The finished frock fits my shape perfectly with no gaping at the neckline and the dress hangs in a lovely A-line shape. The sleeves deserve a special mention as there is ample room for arm movement meaning I can reach, stretch and cycle comfortably. It is the best fitting tunic pattern I have used yet needing no tweaking or alteration after drafting the pattern. I will be looking out for more Alexia Abegg sewing patterns in future!
To make the dress look less like a Christmas tablecloth I added yellow floral patch pockets and will wear it with a matching Layla Amber painted wooden brooch.
↧
Avant Garden Dot Spot Esme Dress
The Dot Spot fabric I've used to make a second Esme dress is part of MoMo's Avant Garden collection for Moda. I bought it in the sale at Worthing's Eclectic Maker fabric shop last Saturday. The repetition of circles on a red background reminds me of Yayoi Kusama's polka dot art (Kusama says polka dots are a way to infinity), and I love the texture of this linen/cotton mix fabric.
The pockets are cut from another fabric in the Avant Garden range left over from making this Tova dress a year ago.
Lotta Jansdotter's Esme works just as well in a heavier weight fabric, and my second version of it fits me as perfectly as the first. The fabric's bold spotted pattern design really comes to life when cut and sewn into three dimensions.
Relentless rain and grey skies of the past few days have made it difficult to get a good enough photograph of the dress, but I can assure you that this Esme is even bolder and brighter in real life!
↧
And then I sewed an Astrid bag
I'm on a roll with Lotta Jansdotter's Everyday Style sewing book and have run up an Astrid cross-body bag to go with the Dot Spot Esme Dress.
Such an easy bag to make, I cut it out yesterday evening, sewed it up in an hour after breakfast and then finished off the hand stitching at this morning's Meet and Make craft get-together.
I used whatever materials came to hand to finish the bag - the lining is left over from my first Esme dress, I used a long zip found in my sewing box and cut it down to size, then sewed a fabric strap so that I wouldn't have to go out and buy leather and rivets as suggested in the sewing instructions.
I made a patch pocket with a Velcro fastening inside to hold my keys. Next time I will try to make one with an internal zip pocket. The finished bag is a perfect shape and size for every day use, in fact I now think all my new homemade dresses should have matching bags...
↧
↧
A Nod to Matisse Esme Dress
This wonderful printed cotton by Windham Fabrics is from designer Jan Avellana's first fabric collection for the brand. Her print designs in the A Nod To Mod range are inspired by artists including Henri Matisse and Alexander Girard, with graphic cut-out shapes and strong, flat colours.
It would have been a shame to cut up this fabric too much, so Lotta Jansdotter's Everyday Style Esme dress provided a clean shape that would best showcase the pattern. I added two (essential) patch pockets here but carefully matched them so that they are almost invisible.
This clocks up to being my fourth Esme (see my third, a fleece version here) and I have no plans to stop making them just yet!
It's still a little too cold to wear this dress without long-sleeved layering underneath but I know it will come into its own this spring and summer.
↧
Flaming Sunset Jacket: Vintage Vogue 9554
On a grey rainy Saturday afternoon I impulse bought two metres of Bernatex cotton material with a painterly flaming sunset print in the sale at the local fabric shop. Can't think why no one else had snapped up this spectacularly kitsch fabric! I thought it would make another quick Esme dress to bring cheer to a dull day.
I then remembered the vintage Vogue 9554 sewing pattern bought last year which includes a wide sleeved edge-to-edge quilted jacket. The idea of a quilted sunset jacket was too good not to pursue, so dusting off the seam gauge I prepared my sewing machine for channel quilting.
I found a large enough piece of fruity floral print cotton in my stash to use as a lining for the inside of the jacket and had just enough thin soft wadding left over from the quilted ukulele bag making days. Sandwiching these layers together with the sunset fabric, I entered into the meditative state of bliss that is channel quilting long straight lines.
Once quilted, the jacket pieces were easy to assemble. I finished off all the edges and trimmed the big patch pockets with purple bias binding bought from Worthing market.
The finished jacket is a celestial sight to behold!
↧
February's Wukulele Jam
It's Wukulele tradition to take a break every January, so Sunday's jam was our first uke meet up of 2016. This was a packed event with standing room only for late-comers upstairs at Worthing Rowing Club. As always there was a jolly good mix of seasoned Wukulele jammers and new folk tentatively stepping out with their ukes for the very first time. Special guest was Portuguese rescue dog Sam who particularly enjoyed Harriet's kazoo solo.
It was a great start to the ukulele playing year.
↧
Spring House Dress: Marcy Tilton Vogue 8813
This is a light, spring edition of the Marcy Tilton French House Dress made from a fine-gauge bird print cotton fabric bought last summer.
This is my third version of Tilton's Vogue 8813 and though the sewing pattern instructions recommend using lightweight jersey, I think the drape and architectural qualities of this design lend it well to all kinds of fabrics from filmy light cottons to heavier weight linens.
For an idea of the versatility of this design, I heartily recommend visiting Project Minima's wonderful dressmaking blog, where she has made several Marcy Tilton House Dresses in repurposed vintage linen table cloths to beautiful effect.
↧
↧
Ethereal Peplone Jacket: Sew Tina Givens
Tina Givens designs clothes fit for romanesque heroines inhabiting fictional landscapes. Her ethereal dresses, coats and blouses, available as sewing patterns, are also practical enough to transition into every day life with oversized easy silhouettes, large functional pockets and simple fastenings. These are garments designed to be easy to sew and intended to be worn layered.
This is her Peplone Jacket, which is actually more of a coat dress. I used a light airy floral block print Indian cotton (a bargain eBay win) as it seemed suitably romantic.
The Peplone jacket was very quick to make and I simply followed the picture instructions supplied alongside the more detailed written text on the PDF print out, working instinctively. Instead of pleating the skirt back and front I gathered it (as in Dress T from Stylish Dress Book).
I finished the jacket with hidden popper fastenings. I'm so pleased with the result that a second Peplone Jacket is now in the works...
↧
Gudrun Sjödén's Patchwork Perfection
The stand-out piece from Gudrun Sjödén's Spring 2016 collection is her Murano knitted cardigan coat. The Murano is a sensation in all colourways but the lupine with its tones of blue and turquoise makes me want to jump for joy.
Gudrun's Spring collection is full of strong colours and prints so it was an unusual choice for me to choose a pair of Myller leggings in black. Black is not a colour I normally wear but the graphic surface print of flowers, dots and dashes in shades of grey and cream looks stunning. Of course I then had to buy the same leggings in cyclamen and china blue colours. They all work well with the Murano coat and give a lift to my old familiar handmade clothes too, refreshing my wardrobe in tune with spring.
In the Spring/Summer catalogue you can also see the results of the Gudrun Sjödén stripes photo shoot I took part in last July in Stockholm. It's a thrill to see these pictures published, a great reminder of a wonderful day spent with lovely people and an experience I'll never forget.
By the way, if you haven't already, you must see my friend Myf Tristram's ace sketch diary of our Stockholm trip, and I can't resist sharing Gudrun's video of the shoot below. Happy days for colourful women!
↧
Upcycled Esme Dress
In an attempt to buy less fabric I have rummaged through my wardrobe and sorted out a pile of dresses I no longer wear with the intention of cutting them up and reusing the fabric to make new clothes. The first remake in this project uses a blue African wax print cotton salvaged from a beautiful dress I wore 6 years ago but have now grown out of! While I would love to have been able to squeeze into the original dress again, this is not really a healthy or realistic goal, so thought it was time to give the fabric a new lease of life and make it into something I can wear today.
There was not quite enough useable material to run to a full length frock so inspired by this Lotta Jansdotter patchwork Esme dress, I used a contrasting band of African wax print fabric left over from making a pair of loud trousers 2 years ago, to patch the material to the right length.
The Esme was super quick to sew and I love the finished result with its clashing prints. The dress is also lovely and soft as the fabric has been well washed and worn. I will definitely be making more of these patched together garments from the discarded dress pile.
↧
Trapeze Tree Dress
Always on the look out for another novelty tree print fabric, this beauty called to me across the floor at Chichester's C&H Fabrics shop. It's a lightweight polycotton, not a fabric I'd usually chose as I've an aversion to the poly, however the print is simply stunning and the price was a steal at £4 a metre.
Trial and error with a contrasting patch pocket resulted in my unpicking a bold first attempt before settling on this camouflaged diagonal pocket, matching the trees as closely as I could.
The dress goes perfectly with my new green tree brooch from Etsy's fab You Make Me Design shop, a present to celebrate my 47th birthday!
↧
↧
A Groovy Kaftan
The joy of sewing new dresses exceeds the routine of photographing and documenting them and so I have a small backlog of 3 new frocks which I shall endeavour to photograph and blog soon. Garments that don't make it to the blog usually still appear on myDresses MadePinterest page and often as a snapshot on Instagram, so do check in there if you want to see my latest concoctions.
This dress deserved more than a brief snapshot as I have used a most magnificent fabric! It's an Alexander Henry cotton print called La Strada. The internet tells me it's from their 2008 collection but it has just made its way to C&H fabrics in Chichester. With it I made my first Esme Kaftan - the long version of the Esme Dress and cover star of Lotta Jansdotter's Everyday Style sewing book.
The kaftan speaks loudly for itself. I intended to keep it to wear at a very special (and I think currently top secret) event at Sussex Ukulele Festival in September, but can't wait until then! Instead I shall enjoy wearing it this summer, thus creating another potential dressmaking opportunity for September's event.
↧
Fisherman's Blues: Merchant & Mills Top 64
A trip to Rye, East Sussex saw me heading straight for Merchant & Mills shop and headquarters. I had resisted buying their sewing patterns this far as to my mind their clean, simple designs look similar to many of the patterns I have previously made from Japanese sewing books. Their 'workwear' aesthetic also seemed a bit dour for my tastes and I was not wholly convinced would be flattering to my greying hair and middle aged pallor. However, I was prepared to be persuaded.
The shop itself is presented along the lines of a traditional drapers shop, or tailor's supply store circa the industrial revolution, with letterpress printed boxes of neatly packaged pins, needles, scissors and other sewing paraphernalia; heavy bolts of fabric in muted tones and natural fibres piled high on a wrought iron legged table in the centre of the shop; and cabinets full of tools, buckles and notions. The shop conveys an air of utilitarianism and serious craftsmanship, a romanticised ideal of authenticity being found in industrial mills, shades of greige and Shaker chic.
Fabrics stocked included some viscose and cotton jersey alongside the expected Irish linen, tweed, oilskin, denim and boiled wool in hues of blue, oatmeal, mushroom and grey. I also saw Indian block print cottons in subtle prints of indigo, grey and brown, as well as some brighter coloured linens. It took me a long time to choose a fabric that I felt I'd be able to wear with confidence back in my 21st century technicolour world but I eventually settled for a three-colour striped block print summer weight cotton.
The sewing pattern I chose was Top 64, a simple loose-fitting tunic based on a traditional fisherman's smock. I had been forewarned that the sizing of Merchant & Mills patterns runs large, so for a perfect (but still generous) fit I cut the pattern across three sizes with the top part in size 10 grading out to a 14 across the hips. I shortened the sleeves and lengthened the hem to make it into a dress and cut my fabric with the stripes running in opposite directions to create more visual interest. The pattern was easy to follow and the dress enjoyably quick to make.
The finished frock is beautiful! It fits well and is has proved one of my most popular makes with the Instagram crowd. I haven't worn it out yet as the hot weather has seen me reaching for my usual colourful clothes, however this will be perfect for formal wear and who knows, may herald the start of a more subtle approach to dressing. Perhaps.
↧
Spanish Tile Esme Dress
Painter Laura Gunn's latest Valencia fabric collection for Michael Miller Fabrics features this amazing Spanish Tile design alongside other richly printed fabrics in her signature floral motifs.
I bought two and a half metres from Worthing's Eclectic Maker sewing shop – my go-to local destination for colourful, top quality fabrics. The material was almost too good to cut into! I decided to make another simple Esme dress to best show off the print and was mindful to carefully pattern match the patch pockets so as not to break up the tile pattern.
Laura Gunn's designs for Michael Miller are printed onto quilting weight cotton but I think they are ideal for dressmaking too. Last year I made a quilted coat using three different fabrics from her Garden Wall range so can testify to their wash and wearability – essential as I know this fabulous dress is going to get a lot of wear.
↧
Autumnal Inspiration at Gudrun Sjödén
 |
| Gudrun Sjödén's wonderful Geranium wrap-around cardigan in moss green worn with her Apple tunic in artemisia |
 |
| Apple tunic in artemisia from Gudrun Sjödén's Autumn 2016 collection |
Her knitwear is particularly strong this season and my favourite piece (so far) is the Geranium patterned jacquard-knit wraparound cardigan which comes in three colourways of pomegranate, moss green and black. I love this garment so much but found it impossible to choose between the pomegranate and the moss, eventually deciding to have both! The cut is so flattering and cosy, perfect for layering at this time of year. It even has a perfectly practical patch pocket.
 |
| Geranium cardigan in pomegranate with copper eco-cotton dress |
The cardigan looks wonderful with everything but I've paired it here with Gudrun's Apple printed cotton/linen tunic in artemisia pale green, and a copper coloured eco-cotton dress with a seersucker texture from her Basic range which has a warm orange tone that I know will give me a real lift on grey autumn days.
 |
| Warmth, colour and loveliness at Gudrun Sjödén's Covent Garden store this autumn |
↧
↧
Happy 7th Birthday Wukulele!
The Autumn Equinox seems a fitting time to share my celebratory photos for Wukulele's seventh birthday party uke jam which took place at Worthing Rowing Club last Sunday.
We are the longest running uke jam in Sussex and probably the jolliest (definitely the most likely to wear party hats). Over the years members have come from far and wide and some have happily gone on to form their own uke jams in neighbouring towns, growing our ukulele community. Wukulele continues to attract newcomers and new strummers and today we are in as strong voice and as purposeful in pluck as at our very first uke jam seven years ago!
You can read our story, see more photos and download our world famous free ukulele songbooks here.
↧
Rainbow Forest Fen Dress
I made this Fen dress back in May but wasn't entirely happy with it at the time so it hung unworn and unblogged at the back of my wardrobe. Sorting through clothes for autumn I tried it on again and felt entirely differently about it. This time round the thick linen/cotton mix fabric with it's bright print of rainbows, clouds and forests seemed to perfectly fit the season, and the cut and shape of the Fen dress felt comfortable and perfect for autumn layering.
The fabric is another purchase from Worthing's Eclectic Maker. It's by Momo for Moda Fabrics and is from her Rainbow Forest range.
The Fen's neckline and boxy fit had initially felt too wide and baggy across my small shoulders, but worn with a vest or t-shirt underneath feels comfortable. I love the dropped hemline and the gathered waist, and I adore the pockets.
Fancy Tiger Crafts have made two gorgeous winter versions of their Fen pattern and I'm now tempted to make another, in cozy plaid flannel too.
↧
Corduroy Contemplations: Ottobre Art Teacher Dress and another Esme
It's two years to the month that I made my first Ottobre Art Teacher dress and I can't fathom why it's taken me so long to reprise this super sewing pattern. The dress is a very quick sew and easy and comfortable to wear. It's perfect for the autumn and winter months and I think would work well in heavy linen, flannel and denim as well as corduroy.
This is my third Art Teacher dress (I made a second one in fleece) and I have to say it's pretty perfect in corduroy. The fabric is a Japanese cotton needlecord bought from Worthing's More Sewing last week.
It had been a while since I visited the More Sewing shop and the selection of colourful quality fabrics they now stock is a delight. On my recent visit the small shop was packed with women attending a dressmaking course and I'm sure the convivial atmosphere contributed to my carefree fabric splurge. I also bought some turquoise printed corduroy from which I made another Esme dress.
↧